The former palace of the Khans has been not only repaired, but even restored by the Russian government, and some of the apartments are beautifully fitted up in the oriental taste, for the reception of distinguished guests. It is also by no means difficult for strangers of inferior rank, if they are furnished with tolerable introductions, to procure admittance into the palace. My companions, who arrived before me, had already taken possession of some pretty chambers, richly provided wiih cai'pets and curtains, whilst I was still parleying with the sentinel for my admission. Food, attendance, and so forth, one must of course find for one's self. The outside of the palace is by no means striking, as it is surrounded by a high wall, and has the appearance of a convent, but the interior is very pretty, with airy courts and gardens, terraces, and cool splashing fountains, and flower beds that fill the air with fragrance. In the gardens we found a magnificent vine planted by the Khans, and stiU loaded with superb grapes ; and from a tower of the Harem, the stately prison of their women, we obtained a good view of the city, which from this point looked like a forest of minarets, tall chimneys, and poplar trees.
The quarter of Baktshiserai, inhabited by the gipsies, is the most remarkable exhibition of dirt, poverty, and misery imaginable. The wigwams of a tribe of American Indians must certainly be very superior habitations. They live like jackals in caves hollowed out by water, or under wretched little sheds made of mud and reeds plastered up against the rock. The girls and boys run about stark naked tiU they are qiute grown up, and then only hang round themselves a few scanty rags. At night, when their fires are kindled all over the mountain, and their dark figures are seen moving about busily engaged in the cookery of hedgehogs, crows, rats, and such like favourite dainties, their rocky abodes have a wildly picturesque and romantic appearance.
In the burial-place of the Khans I found many memorials strikingly at variance with our notions of these barbarians ; so many traces of humanity and piety, that I felt more strongly than ever, how imperfect are the records of history. Every traveller in the Crimea is sure to have been weU instructed in the stories of the desolatmg ravages of the Tartars ; of their plunderings and murderings, of how often they have burned Moscow, and struck terror into Vilna and Warsaw ; but If asked wliere their remains were hkely to be found, he would scarcely imagine sucli peaceful consecrated resting-places, such neatly-executed white marble monuments, shaded by -sines, and other trees ; the spaces between filled with shrubs and flowers, and the tombs beanng inscriptions that might almost lead one to Imagine these wild Khans had been all of them philosophers and original thinkers. Every monument appeared to have been constructed t« imbody a leading idea. For instance: Devlet-Gcrai Khan, had one built without a roof, because " he considered the Heavens so beautiful and subhnie, that even from his grave he would wish to look towards the firmament, the abode of God." Another had had his tomb entirely walled up, because, as the inscription ran, " he did not feel himself worthy to be shone on by the least ray of God's sun."
On the grave of another, Toktamuish-Khan, a vine was planted over his head, " that he, who in his hfe-time had brought forth so little fruit, might at least in death be more productive." Selim Gerai Khan has had himself buried under the eaves of the roof of the mosque, that, " as the rain dripped down upon him, this water from heaven might wash away the foulness of his sins, which were as many as the drops falling from the clouds."