The dinner began, the preliixdnary whet, the soups and the roti came and disappeared in their turns ; the red, white, Greek, Spanish, and French -wines sparkled successively in the glasses of the guests. The ambassador kept close guard on his watch, and the grand-duke, observing his earnest anxiety, smiled with good-humoured archness. The pretended lackey was busily assisting in the removal of the dishes, the dinner was nearly over, and the prince awaited with impatience the expected signal. Suddenly his countenance brightened ; he turned to the ambassador who was deep in conversation ^vith his neighbour, and asked him what was the hour. His excellency triumphantly put his hand to his pocket, he had had it on his watch a few moments before — and to the amusement of all, but particularly of the grand-duke, drew out a very neatly cut turnip ! A general laugh followed. The ambassador, somewhat embarrassed, would take a pinch of snuflF, and felt in all his pockets for his gold snuffbox — it was gone ! The laughter became louder ; the ambassador in his embarrassment and vexation had recourse to his seal ring, to turn it as he was accustomed — it was gone ! in short he found that he had been regidarly plundered of every thing but what had been fastened on him by the tailor and the shoemaker — of ring, watch, snuffbox, handkerchief, toothpick and gloves. The adroit rogue was brought before him, and commanded by the grand-duke to give back the stolen property ; when, to the great surpiise of the prince, the pickpocket took out two watches, and presented one to the ambassador, and one to his imperial highness ; two rings, one for the ambassador, and one for the grand-duke, two snuffboxes, &c. In astonishment, his higlmess now felt in his pockets as the ambassador had done, and found that he too had been stripped of his moveables in a hke manner. The gi'and-duke solemnly assured the ambassador that he had been quite unconscious of the theft, and was disposed at first to be angry with the too dexterous artist. However, upon second thoughts, the fellow, who had enabled him to win his wager so triumphantly, was dismissed with a present, and a warning to employ his talents in future to more useful purposes.
In the first few days of my stay in St. Petersburg, I had occasion to visit the AUen-office several times. It is, undeniably, one of the most interesting offices in the city. Its destination is inscribed upon its brow in four different languages. The officers are exceedingly polite, and generally address you in your native language. In the antechamber, persons are stationed to take the cloak or furred coat, and give tickets in exchange as at a club. The halls of audience are large and airy, as they are in all public offices in Russia, whose roomy buildings bear the same relation to our murky dens, in point of size, as the Russian empire does to our kingdoms.
As every foreigner must present himself in person to obtain and renew his certificate of permission to reside, a very interesting society is generally to be found here, and one has an opportunity of becoming acquainted with every stranger in St. Petersburg. Here sit the English grumbling and cursing more than all at the countless inquiries of the Russian police ; Germans who take it more patiently, and give contentedly the required guarantees, certificates, and signatures ; governesses answering the many questions put to them in fear and trembling ; old ladies who, in their eightieth year, must talk about their biiih, and say when and where, and how they came into this world ; merchants, the quietest and most loyal people in the world, and intent only on getting money, and yet who are required to give security for their political sentiments ; honest German artisans questioned and cross-questioned like suspected criminals ; but all, as I said before, in the politest manner possible. It is to be remarked also, that every thing issuing from these officials has the smoothest exterior. Paper, writing, sealing, typographical arrangement, and even the style of the passports, permissions to reside, certificates, and testimonials, which the Russian authorities issue, are better and more tasteful in appearance than with us. Ours smack of the dismal locaUty whence they emanate, and stiU bear the stamp of the middle ages ; in Russia all these things are in the newest fashion.