The different artists, violinists, virtuosos, actors and actresses, who travel between Berlin and St. Petersburg, through Dantzig, Konigsberg, Mitau, and Riga, all speak of their reception at the capital of Coiu-land with the utmost complacency and satisfaction. They can scarcely say enough in praise of the hospitality and enthusiasm for art with which they were welcomed, of the splendid entertainments given them, and of the tender attentions of the Mitau nobility to the younger among them. The Russian officers quartered at Mitau are always full of stories of the )leasing manners of the Mitau ladies ; and when the St. Petersburg guard is stationed here, as is frequently the case, they seldom leave the place !)efore two or three new marriages have been celebrated between tall, y»nnig, Russian olficers, and pretty German damsels, who have ample leisure
ST. john's-day at MITAU. 321
afterwai-ds at St. Petersburg, or the interior, to talk over the happy days of their courtship at Mitau.
In the wintertime, the wealthy nobles of Mitau give continual fetes, balls, and soirees, so that on a lively winter's evening the noise of carriages is incessant. At the festive period of Christmas, not merely the upper classes, but even the lowest, become partakers in the universal gaiety that prevails ; even the Jews arc then more sociable, and hospitable than usual. The liberality with which all leisure is sacrificed to company keeping, certainly prevents much useful exertion, and domestic life is not so domestic as with us, but on the other hand, our club and coifeehouse-life, so destructive to mind, heart, and temper, is prevented.
The most lively epoch of the whole year at Mitau is in the midst of sunmier, when all the nobility around, from east, west, south, and north, meet there to transact business. On Johannistag, the 24th of June, all contracts are closed, all rents and taxes arc due, all loans and interests and dividends are to be paid. Many fears and hopes, joys and sorrows, are ended in Mitau, and the rest of Courland, on this eventful day. On Johannistag, the hardpressed borrow money, the rich man buys new estates, and puts out at interest the capital he has accumulated ; about Johannistag, whole miles of land are mortgaged. On Johannistag many are declared bankrupts; and while one exclaims as he drives home — " 1 have had a good Johanni, ' another mournfully sighs, "Ah this Johanni has been the ruin of me.
At Johannistag the whole town is full of life and bustle, and every spare room is occupied. The ladies make their purchases for the country ; many or few, accordmg as the Johanni of their lords and masters has been good or bad. This attracts merchants to Mitau. The relations and acquaintances, who, hidden in opposite forests of the country, have not seen one another the whole year, now exchange dinners and soirees, and a fortnight's feastmg follows the three business days, to which the Johanni was originally confined.
There exists for the gentry of the town but one club, which however is very v/ell arranged, and brings together the most delightful circles at its concerts, balls, and lotteries. The Casino of Mitau is exclusively for the nobility of the town, and for their tutors, governesses, and the other inmates of tlieir families, who participate in all their pri\'ileges. The Courland Society of Literature and Art, the head-quarters of which are at Mitau, and the founder of which is the Staatsrath von Recke, fm-nishes other opportunities for meetings among the inhabitants. It is such a pleasant little academy in miniature, that even a stranger cannot but take interest in its meetings, at v.hich the more cultivated ladies of the town are often present; and he will find )leasure in listenhig to the readings of the society on the Origin of the Lettes, or on the floating islands of the Courland lakes, or on the moss of the Livonian forests, or on northern bee-keeping, or on any other subject, for the society wisely avoids confining itself to any topic. Many useful undertakings have originated in this society. Among others it has led to the establishment of the Provincial Museum of Comlaud, m which museum are to be fomid all creep-
322 ST. JOim'S-DAY AT MITAU.
ing, swinimiiig, flying, or walking animals, who inhabit the forests, marshes, and rivers of Courland, as well as portraits of aU the Coiu-tand dukes, and other far-famed men of the country. Its plan includes everything connected with the province itself, and excludes aU else, so as to become a perfect provincial museum ; a praiseworthy system, well deserving the imitation of other local museums.