The daws, pigeons, crows, &c., have nestled in such numbers, iu the great empty space within, that the whole house is like one great aviary. Thirty or thirty-five fire-ravaged chambers and corridors have been changed, by the accumidated filth of a quarter of a century, into veritable Augean stables ; to cleanse which the property of the family is no longer Herculean enough. As for the doves, these innocent favourites of Venus have increased so astonishingly that they are a public calamity. The steward told me he had often had the upper windows repaired, but they were constantly broken by the doves ; and when he caused them to be nailed up with boards, these birds had pecked themselves an entrance through the roof. The Russians have a kind, of religious horror of kilHng one of these birds, though they take no care of them otherwise ; and it is even so with the dogs, particularly among the people of Lesser Russia.
The off palace has so commanding a site, and looks so imposing from the streets of Moscow, that many may be misled as I was, and fancy there is a fine view of the KremUn to be obtained from it ; let me observe here once for all, that they may spare themselves the trouble of mounting the steps. The walls of the Kremlin are higher on this side than any where else, so high, that it is impossible to see completely over them. All its towers and churches seem to lie in a heap, nothing is developed or grouped, the utmost to be gained is the knowledge of what we should scarcely have otherwise surmised, that even the Kremlin has its wearisome side.
On the ground-floor, a suite of elegant apartments does not disdain to lie under that wilderness of dirt and lumber which has just been described, and above that melancholy soitterrain of servants' offices. The master of the house lives here only a short time in winter, being fettered to St. Petersbm'g by some pubhc office. Wlien the family is coming, the rooms are cleaned and patched and painted, and all " kak 7ii hud^ (is somehow) put into seeming order ; sufficiently so at least to make a show for six weeks.
In the time of Cathenne and Paul, and even under Alexander, Moscow ■was a secessus of the richest and most independent nobles ; and partially it is so now, but by no means in the degree we in Germany suppose. In the theatre, at the concerts, &c., it has far more the character of a provincial city, than of a capital, as it still calls itself. Under the reign of the Emperor Nicholas, though he has not neglected this darhng of the nation, and heart of its interior life, the importance of the city has greatly diminished. Not only the most distinguished talents wliich have devoted themselves to the service of the state are to be found in St. Petersbm-g, but the largest fortunes have been allured thither by the charms of the court. Many palaces and magnificent country-houses are unoccupied in the neighbourhood of Moscow ; a large number have fallen into the hands of the Government. The court, if it does not, as under some former reigns, show too much scorn of national manners, has a wonderfully attractive power over the Russians. They are far from being animated by the spirit of Caesar, who would rather have been the first man in lCi-;ihwinkel than the second in Rome. The Russians thhik rather, " better be one among thousands in St. Petersburg, than the only one in Moscow." It has been well said, as long ago as by Herberstein, no nation has such a passion for submitting to command as the Russians.
Thus In Moscow we find at the present time, moderate fortunes, and moderate talents ; fortunes not large enough to veil other deficiencies, talents not great enough to secure their position in society. Here too the bonds of society sit lighter and easier ; all is more old Russian, the FrenchGerman manners of the Baltic capital are not liked, and those of the old Asiatic centre are greatly preferred. This is particularly the case with the wealthy merchants and some others, who have no personal privileges in society. For them Moscow will long remain the loved and holy.