According to northern custom, it is the duty of the host to be unceasingly occupied with the entertainment of his guests, from early in the morning till late at night, even should the visiters remain for three months ; it is astonishing with what patience and cheerfulness this duty is performed. At night the master of the house pays each of his guests a parting visit in their several rooms, to see that their wishes are all attended to, and the next morning he is by their bedsides, before any of them are up, to ask after their health and their night's rest, to project hunts, drives, rides, walks, with them, and to converse according to their different tastes. There is a higher degree of self-denial and self-sacrifice necessary for all this than is often found with us. Not that I woidd altogether acquit the inhabitants of the north of selfishness. The Llvonians and Courlanders are quite human. But hospitality is their ruling thought. She is their all-worshipped goddess, and they sacrifice to her their wishes, their convenience, their occupations, their money, and their time.
In a country where neither politics nor literature interest the inhabitants, and where a succession of bad weather often confines the host and hostess and their guests for several days to the same rooms, it does not at first appear easy to keep up conversation. But these very circumstances have developed in the inhabitants of the north a peculiar art of convei-siation. The condition of the roads, the wind and weather, uncles, aunts, and relations, the merest nothings, supply matter for gossip, which shortens the time, keeps the lips elastic, and tlie eyes awake. For days together little anecdotes and occurrences are talked over again and again ; and if nothing more can be said, so great is their sociability, that they enjoy the mere being together, just as Gothe's Egmont enjoyed " the pleasant habit of existence."
In spite of all this, however, the entertainers are often very much at a loss. ' ' Dear me ! the house is ftill of guests ; Good Heavens ! who shall keep up the conversation ? Papa has gone out — Mamma is unwell ! What shall we do to entertain the guests ?" The entertainment of the guests — that is always the question. The conversation — that is always the great task. Should the gentleman of the house be absent, the eldest son must do the honours, or, if he is too young, his tutor, or if he is not inclined, the clergyman is entreated to come. In place of the lady of the house, the daughters, or the governess, or the companion, must assume tlie office of complimenting the guests, entertaining the ladies, inquiring after their health, their journey, their relations, &c. The hospitality of the Baltic Provinces is so great, that the house is often full of strangers for days together, in the absence of both master and mistress. It is enough if representatives are there to take their place. In fact, hospitality here is scarcely a personal quality, but belongs as a fixture to the estate, and can be practised, even when the whole family of the proprietor are travelling abroad. Guests arrive as usual, and find some steward, physician, or pastor, who plays the agreeable host in the absence of his lord, and takes care that his reputation for hospitality shall not suffer in his absence.
As every carriage, whether it come with one, two, or four horses, is welcome, and as hospitality is equally exercised to all, it may be supposed that many take advantage of these customs, to lessen the cost of housekeeping. In the neighbourhood of every great family, there are always to be found some gifted Ranudos, some less wealthy Colibrados, who look upon the rich mansion as an unfailing resource, and who are almost always to be found quartered upon their liberal neighboui'S. Sometimes they just drop in for a moment, to inquire after their friends' health, and to ask thenadvice ; they are determined to run away directly ; but gradually they reluctantly allow themselves to be persuaded to stop the night, just to give their horses a little rest ; and then invariably forget themselves so far, as to stay for a week at least.