This celebrated nestling-place of the " Iberian Mother " consists of one undivided area. She herself, however, is in a kind of sanctuary hollowed out at the further end. The immediate space in front is adorned with many pictures of saints, and filled with silver candlesticks, and other glittering ware. She sits in the half-darkened background, in the midst of gold and pearls. Like all Russian saints, she has a dark-brown, almost black complexion. Round her head she has a net made of real pearls. On one shoulder a large jewel is fastened, shedding brightness around, as if a butterfly had settled there. Such another butterfly rests on her brow, above which glitters a brilliant crown. In one corner of the picture, on a silver plate, is inscribed, 'l^epcov. Around the picture are gold brocaded hangings, to which angels' heads, painted on porcelain with silver wings, are sewn: the whole is lighted up by thirteen silver lamps. Beside the picture there are a number of drawers containing wax tapers, and books ha\dng reference to her history. Her hand and the foot of the child are covered with dirt from the abundant kissing; it sits like a crust in little raised points, so that long since it has not been hand and foot that have been kissed, but the concrete breath of pious lips. The doors of the chapel stand open the whole day, and all are admitted who are in sorrow, and heavy laden; and this includes here, as every where else, a considerable number. I often beheld with astonishment the multitudes that streamed in, testifying the inordinate power which this picture exercises over their minds None ever pass, however pressing their business, without bowing and crossing themselves. The greater part enter, kneel devoutly down before " the Mother," and pray with fen-^ent sighs. Here come the peasants early in the morning before going to market; they lay aside their burdens, pray a while, and then go their way. Hither comes the merchant on the eve of a new speculation, to ask the assistance of the angels hovering round "the Mother." Hither come the healthy and the sick, the wealthy, and those who would become so; the arriving and the departing traveller, the fortunate and the unfortufiate, the noble and the beggar. All pray, thank, supplicate, sigh, laud, and pour out their hearts before " the Mother." There is really something touching in seeing the most sumptuously-clad ladies, glittering ^vith jewels, leave their splendid equipages and gallant attendants, and prostrate themselves in the dust with the beggars. On a holiday I once counted two hinidred passing pilgrims, kneeling down before " the Ibeiian Mother;" and thought with astonishment of the importance of this little spot of ground. Since Alexis, the Czars have never failed to visit it frequently. The present emperor never omits to do so, when he comes to Moscow. It is said that he has come more than once in the middle of the nio-ht, and wakened the monks, in order that he might perform his devotions. The picture is also, if desired, can'ied to the houses
For this purpose, a carriage with four horses is kept constantly ready, in which it is transported with pomp ; not the real picture, but a copy that hangs in the ibre-chapel ; — at least so said the attendants at the chapel ; but others contradicted it, and said that the copy remained behind for passing worshippers, and the original was carried to the sick. The visit costs five rubles, and a voluntary present is usually made to the monks.
I had almost forgotten to mention the principal thing ; namely, that there is a veiy little scratch in the right cheek, that distils blood. This wound was inflicted, nobody knows when or how, by Turks or Circassians, and exactly this it is by which the miraculous powers of the picture were proved ; for scarcely had the steel pierced the canvass, than the blood trickled from the painted cheek. In every copy the painter has represented this wound, with a few delicate drops of blood. As I was speaking of this and other miracles to a monk, he made, to my imprudent question, whether miracles were now daily wrought by it, the really prudent reply, " Why, yes, if it be God's pleasure, and when there is faith ; for it is written in the Bible, that faith alone blesses.'
On the other side of the stone bridge, going towards the Tartar-street, we reach a portion of the city where the houses are particularly small and low, and the courts and gardens all the larger. In this quarter stands the small place of worship erected by the Mohammedans in Moscow.