Blu42 Media

St. Petersburg: Theatres, Carnival, Easter, The Islands, Cronstadt and the Navy

page 147/436

Sueh are the Volny Islands, the Trukhtanoff islands and some others. They are swampy and overgrown with birch, and scarcely known by name in St. Petersbm-g" ; others contain magazines for powder and other stores. The largest are the often -named Vassili Ostroff, the St. Petersburg island, and the islands formed by the Moika, Fontanka, and the otlier canals. These are almost entirely occupied by the houses of the city, and form the centre of this island-metropolis. North-west of the St. Petersburg island lie five others of moderate size, separated by the arms of the greater and lesser Nevka, and the Neva — these are the islands, emphatically so called the " Garden Islands" of St. Petersburg, Krestovsky (the Cross Island) — Kammenoi Ostroff (the Stone Island), Petrofskoi Ostroff (Peter's Island), Yelaginskoi Ostroff (Yelagin Island), and the Apothecary Island. Originally these islands yielded nothing but shrubs, some few old oaks, the senior veterans of St. Petersburg, and particularly birches and firs, \nh which the greater part of the islands are still covered. These primeval woods and primeval swamps were invaded by the art of gardening towards the close of the last century. Man cleared them in some measure, made gravel walks, planted new trees, such as could be made to grow under the 60th parallel of latitude, left standing the old oaks under which the Ingrians had sacrificed, and also here and there a little Finnish fishing-village, which, in the midst of increasing luxury, displayed, in the most piquant manner, the contrast of times, and the extremes of social life. Bridges were thrown from island to island, canals made, and above all imperial pleasure palaces and pretty villas Datshas) were built on the banks of the river.

The greater part of these gardens have been planted under Alexander and Nicholas, to whom almost eveiy Russian town is indebted for its public garden. They were begun under Catherine, and hence perhaps the name Datsha (gift) for villa, for she made many grants of ground and even of whole islands to her favourites, that they might build and lay out villas and houses there. The Yelagin Island was first given to a Melgunoff, then to a Yelagin ; it now belongs to the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. Each of the islands has its particular destination, and is devoted to a particular class. Yelagin belongs almost exclusively to the court ; it is entirely occupied by the imperial chateau and gardens. The court generally resides there in spring, which is the most brilliant time for the ish,nds. On this island there are no private houses, and no other amusement for the public than walking. There is nothing very remarkable in the chateau of Yelagin ; it is not to be compared with the gardens and chateau at Potsdam. — Kammenoi Ostroff is the chief island for the villas of the wealthier classes. The houses are built on the banks of the river, all ia different styles, one is Gothic, another Italian, a third Chinese, &c. ; in this small space specimens are to be found of the taste of all ages and nations in gardening and villa building. Although they have generally cost enormous sums in the erection, and display much luxury, we should look in vain for the architectural grandeur of the Italian villas, the comfort of English country houses, or the simple enjoyment of a German garden. For one charm these Datshas are indebted to the severity of the

Wlien they say iu St. Petersburg " We will go to the islands this summer," " We will make a party to the islands," they mean these five Garden Islands, and no otliers out of the whole forty.

climate, namely, for the great, abundance of flowers. Tlie hot-houses are profusely supplied, and in the warm weather, the balconies, doors, and windows of the Datshas are adorned with multitudes of exotic plants, as the peasant's houses in many parts of Germany are with May-flowers at "Whitsuntide.

Krestovsky, or the Cross Island, lies before the courtly Yelagin and Kammenoi Ostroff, towards the sea, and is larger than the two former put together. Numerous avenues have been opened through the thick primeval birch and pinewood of this island, and afford agreeable views of the Gulf of Finland. This island is peculiarly the resort of the lower classes of St. Petersburg ; hither flock the Mushik and the Kupez in gay gondolas, to enjoy, in the woods, their national amusements of swings and Russian mountains, and here on holidays smokes on the grass under every pine-group the favourite samovar^ round which may be seen encamped a party of long-beards, gossiping, singing, and clamouring.