A reef of rocks runs right across the Windau at Goldingen, and tliis no doubt led to the selection of the place by the first settlers there. The reef is very useful in catching fish, and the hills on the banks of the river presented facilities for defence. The ruins of former castles are still to be found on the hills, and the fishery on the reef still continues ; and a very peculiar kind of fishing it is.
The reef is two or three feet high, is quite flat, level, and uninterrupted, and runs right across the river, so that the water flows down it calmly and equably. This waterfall is called " The Runmel." The fish which s^\^m up the river, when they come to this point, make a run and a jump, and leap up upon the platform. This cleverness on the part of the fish causes their destruction by the hands of man, who knows how to turn the sagacity as well as the stupidity of animals to his own advantage. The fishermen fasten baskets and nets to the reef, over which the water foams away; the fish make their leaps, and jump right into the nets.
The fishermen of Courland have another way of catching fish ; they harpoon them at night by torchhght, in the same manner as some of the savages in North America do. With us, I believe, this manner of fishing is scarcely ever practised, though very common in the Baltic provinces. They stick up a pole at one end of the boat, at whose top is hung a small iron basket full of fire. The light glares upon the water, attracting and fascinating the fish. One of the fishermen stands, armed with the harpoon, at one end of the boat ; another rows silently and slowly up the river. Tlie fish, who are more clearly seen through the water by the glare of the liglit than in broad sunshine, remain motionless before the boat for a few seconds gazing at the fire, and then usually receive their deathstroke from the experienced harpoouer. In summer the rivers of the country glitter at night with the numberless lights of these fish-murdering wanderers.
We examined the great works in the neighbourhood of Goldingen, which were begun a few years ago for the intended canal of the Windau. Great complaints are made that an undertaking which cost the inhabitants many millions should never have been completed, and that the officers engaged should liave pocketed hundreds of thousands for nothing.
How much like a city Goldingen now feels, is shown by the perpetual disagreements of its citizens with the nobility of the surrounding country. Shortly before my arrival these two classes had severed themselves completely, and each had its own club and casino. This indicates a more independent spirit in the citizens of Goldingen than is to be found in any other of the small towns of Courland, where they are generally the humble and submissive vassals of the nobility.
I made some little excursions from Goldingen to the castles of the surrounding country. Edwahlen is a very celebrated old mansion, which formerly belonged to the bishops of Pilten, and at present is in possession of one of the most eminent nobles of Courland, called von Behr. It is one of the few castles of Courland which have retained their antique architecture to the present day. It forms a turreted quadrangle, surrounded on thi'ee sides by water. On the fourth side it is sheltered by a grove of very old oaks, which forms part of the park. Beyond the moat are the mills, manufactories, breweries, church, &c. The church is a stately and solid building, like most churches in these provinces.
Many antiquities, offensive and defensive, armour, &c., hung upon the walls of the church ; among others, a very long ti-umpet, to which was attached a singular anecdote. This instrument once belonged to a ducal trumpeter, who, after partaking of the sacrament, and reverentially receiving the priestly benediction, quietly plucked his pistols from his girdle, and shot himself in the midst of the church, before the eyes of the whole congregation.