Blu42 Media

The Baltic Provinces: Libau, Courland, Mitau and the Port of Riga

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Bears, like all wild animals, are much afraid of men ; they scarcely ever attack them. Even to cattle bears are not as dangerous as wolves. It is very rare to find a horse or ox destroyed by bears. They do most mischief in corn-fields, beehives, and orchards. I made the acquaintance of the man who had murdered the mother of our five little visiters, and he related to us the circumstances of her death in the following manner:

" As I went into the forest to chop wood, a few days ago, I heard a noise in the bushes. I stept softly over the snow, and saw a great she bear in her den with her young ones. She was licking her paws. I did not dare to attack her, for I had only my axe with me, but I took exact notice where she was, and went home to fetch mj gim. I returned quite alone to the forest, for to confess the truth I was stingy, and didn't want to share the skin. When I came to the boar, I threw stones and snow-balls at her, to make her pay attention, and stand up, for it is easier to shoot them in that position. The bear looked round, growled, and reared herself up, I took aim, fired, and hit her on the right side ; she fell down, and I put an end to her with my knife. As my gun was singlod-barrelled, I should have been in a bad case if my shot had missed ; the bear would have given me an ungentle embrace. One must never despair, however, even in the arms of a bear ; for tliere is always the chance of stabbing the creature with a knife. I have killed many bears that way, but seldom in such cases without some loss of blood. A few years ago I lost several tliick slices of flesh from my arm and shoulders, and last year a bear took off my cap so clumsily, that the whole scalp went with it. But I stabbed her, clapped on ray scalp again, and had myself cured." He showed me his head, which was scored all over with recent scars. It is a curious fact, that it is always the head of his opponent that the bear first attacks. An accident that happened in Livonia a short time ago, confirms this. Two Russians from Novgorod, who were travelUng with a dancing bear, got tipsy at a country inn one day, and in their drunken goodnature, gave the bear also a dram. As they continued their journey, the men got sleepy, and lying down on the ground, one of them tied the bear's chain round his waist. They both fell asleep. Upon the bear, however, dnmkenness had a very different effect. He became unusually ferocious, and it was not long before he attacked and scalped one of liis masters. A passing shepherd found him engaged in destroying and devouring his shrieking and struggHng victim. It was with great difficulty that the shepherd contrived to save the other man, Avho had lain fast asleep the whole time.

The skin of the bear Is sold to the Russian furdealers ; the flesh is eaten by the peasants themselves, or else sold at Narva. The young ones are fed with milk and bread till they are about twelve months old, and they are then shot for their skins. Tliis will probably be the fate of our five Httle acquaintances ; unless, indeed, they should be bought by some keeper of dancing bears, and earn their bread by the exhibition of their accomplishments.

We drove along by tlie Pelpus lake, from Kleinpungem to near Vaivara. The shores are here quite low, and on the edge of the lake enormous masses of ice have piled themselves together, forming a complete wall. As far as the eye could reach we saw the boundaries of the lake defuied by this wall of ice. We spent the night at Vaivara, and beheld the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Light. It was followed the next day, as usual, by very cold weather, and a chill Siberian breeze. The wind, however, was favourable, and we scudded before it. This was no small advantage to people travelling in a sledge, and we reached Narva all the sooner.

Narva is the only interesting point between Dorpat and St. Petersburg. Though the town has only 5000 inhabitants, less than that of many Russian villages, yet many a large town might appear uninteresting and unattractive compared to the lively, compact little Narva. It is a thoroughly German town, with an old imperial constitution and similar privileges to those of Riga and Reval. Being on the boundary between Esthonia and Russia, Narva has been the scene of numberless sieges, bombardments, battles, and blockades.

As at Riga and Dorpat, a Russian incmstation has fastened upon the old German foundation of Narva. The Russians all dwell on the righthand side of the river, round the ruins of their old Ivangorod, and the Germans on the left side of the Narova, -within their walls.