Our boat could go no farther than the rapids, over which it is extremely dangerous to attempt a passage. Preparation is always made to check the boat before approaching too near. The boat that followed us was carried among the rocks, not being checked in season, she was nearly destroyed, and many of her passengers were drowned. Our boat was Bto] in season, and hauled safely along-side the bank. \\ e were now to leave this boat, and take the one on tin- other Bide, or below the rapids. She had just come up from Greytown, with passengers who were to pass over the road we had just left, being bound to San Francisco. The distance bet* i the boats was half a mile.
1 went en board the upward steamer, expecting to meet a friend, en rout for California. Went into her cabin, and there were ab >nt thirty Lad all ages, sizes, and complexions, who were rigged out m their finest dresses, and who appeared to be preparing for B FF ball, rather than a tramp through the mud. My appearance seemed somewhat to startle them; I apologized for my intrusion by saying that I was looking for a gentleman whom I expected to find on board. There seemed to be two matron looking ladies, who appeared to have some control over the rest. So I addressed myself to these: "Ladies, I see you are all preparing to go on shore.
Allow me to give you a few words of advice. I have just come from San Juan, and advise you all to change your rich dresses for the very poorest you have; you will find no accommodations for ladies on board the other boat, and your road from Virgin Bay to San Juan, will be one continuous sheet of mud. You can procure no refreshment on the way, and on your arrival at San Juan, if the steamer is not ready, your condition will be extremly uncomfortable." They appeared much surprised at this information, saying that the agents at New York, had given them quite a different description of the road, representing it as a beautiful ride, more like a pleasure excursion, than a journey.
I assured them that it was quite the reverse, the road was in a most miserable condition, adding, the moment you leave this boat your trouble commences. Even from here to the other boat, which is but half a mile, you cannot avoid sinking ankle deep in mud, and on board the other, there are no accommodations for you whatever, nor a morsel of anything to eat. When you arrive at Virgin Bay your lives will be jeopardized in landing, and then if you don't look sharp you will be robbed by villanous agents. There are few ladies' saddles to be had, the mules are miserable, and if they give out on the road, what will become of you? You may rely on what I have told you.
I am very glad that the friend I was looking after is not here. The ladies began to unrig. No possencvers were allowed to go on board until they had finished their newly arranged toilet. In a short time they came ashore, metamorphosed into novitiates for a nunnery. I saw no more of them. At 4 P. M., we started for Grey town, and arrived next day at 2 P. M. The steamer Daniel Webster was lying ready for us, and was to sail in two days. Our luggage had not yet arrived, there seemed to be a general anxiety among the passengers whether it would arrive in season for the steamer. There were no accommodations here for sleeping except at the rum holes.
Myself and three others hired a bamboo shed, and slept upon the ground; we having no beds were glad to take np with what accommodations we could get. The steamer would allow no passengers on board until the morning of sailing, and on that day our luggage had Hot arrived and were obliged to sail without it, the agenti at Grey town assuring us that it should be forthcoming by the next steamer, which in some measure relieved our suspense. I never saw mine after landing it at San Juan. I called on the transit agents at New York, for indemnification. They refused to do anything about it unless compelled by law. I told them that my loss was $176.
1 did not wish to go into a lawsuit, and if they would refund what I had paid for its conveyance to their own agents, which was eight dollars, I would trouble them no more, which they a refused, and ordered me out of the office. Such was the treatment I received from this transit company's agent. But to my narrative. We stopped at Havana for coal. It was but a short time after the filibustering executions, the excitement against the Americans had not yet suhsided. A n officer came off from the shore to furnish passengers with permits for landing, for which we paid one dollar. 1 had a pleasant vide around the country, and think there is noplace where an invalid could pass the winter mure pleasantly than at Havana.