There were a number of shipmasters at our boarding-house, and when I told them the story of my journey to St. Helens and back; they were convulsed with laughter; and it served to make fun for us while we were together. I had now seen as much of Liverpool as I desired, and took a seat on the " Tally-lio" for London. Most travellers in England in those days, rode upon the top of the coach, as it was more pleasant, and less expensive, besides affording the traveller a better prospect of the country. The risk of rain however must be taken into consideration, as it is very inconvenient to hold an umbrella when the passengers are crowded.
We left Liverpool for London in high glee, passing through many interesting villages and manufacturing towns. The first town of any note that drew my attention, was New Castle-under-Lyme, in Staffordshire. It stands on a branch of the Trent, and when the coach stopped to shift horses, I noticed opposite the inn a printed bill upon the post of a gate leading up to an extensive machine establishment. The advertisement ran thus: " On exhibition at the machine works on the hill, a steam carriage that will draw — tons on a level road, miles an hour. Price of admittance, one shilling." This was the first locomotive engine that we have any account of. We passed through Wolverhampton just after dark.
The atmosphere being rather hazy, it looked like the infernal regions; fires blazing up in all directions from the numerous blasting furnaces. It has also been completely undermined by coaldiggers, and in many instances the earth floors of the cottages have fallen through. We passed many interesting towns, which, on approaching, the guard played most beautifully on the bugle. The coach arrived quite late at Birmingham, where we remained until morning. On leaving B., 1 had a fellow traveller at my side — an Irish r»i7 gentleman, who appeared to be well informed on everything but Geography and the History of the United States, of which he was as ignorant as a mule. I have always found the English to be sadly deficient in a knowledge of any other country than their own.
This gentleman, on learning that I was from America, appeared to be much interested, enquiring about " that wonderful country." He said to me "I suppose you are well acquainted with my brother?" " Your brother, sir; what is his name, and where does he reside?" said I. " Ah! his name is John Kevins, and I think he lives at Swan Paver." " Swan River," said I, "why that is in New Holland." " Ah! indeed; I thought it was in America." My Irish companion left us at Coventry, and I was really sorry to lose him. By the way, I must say a word about this ancient town. Everybody has probably heard of " Peeping Tom," of Coventry.
Leofrice, Earl of Mercia, who was Lord of the place about 1040, is said to have loaded the inhabitants with heavy taxes, on account of some provocation he had received from them; and being importuned by his lady, Godivia, to remit them, he consented, upon condition that she would ride in a state of nudity through the town, which condition she accepted and performed. For being possessed of a long flowing head of hair, she contrived to dispose of her tresses so as to preserve her decency; and at the same time, enjoined the citizens on pain of death, not to look out as she passed. The curiosity of a poor tailor, however, prevailed over his fears, and he ventured to take a single peep, but was struck blind, and was ever after called Peeping Tom.
This improbable story is annually commemorated by the citizens of Coventry, with great splendor, and a female, closely habited in fine linen of flesh color, rides through the town, attended by a very numerous and elegant procession. The window through which the tailor is said to have gratified his curiosity, is still shown, with his effigy, always newly dressed for the procession, which is on the Friday preceding Trinity Sunday. While passing through Weeden, I requested the guard to give us Yankee Doodle, on his bugle. Here, is a large encampment of regular English soldiers, and as soon as the buo*le notes echoed through the tents, such a- scampering! The whole place was in commotion; and one pretty little girl who was seated near me, was so incensed at the " Yanke National Air," that she put a finger in each ear, determined that such a vile tune should never penetrate her royal head.