I remained until they had drank wine, Scotch ale, porter, and had called for brandy. I then arose, went to my room, which was directly oyer the porch, and set there awhile, waiting for my Scotch friend to call for me. I heard them arise from the table, and saw my old Boston friend leave the room, hardly able to stand upright; he staggered through the alley, and went into the street. I saw no more of him after that day. My first visit in Edinburgh was to Holyrood house, once the residence of Mary, Queen of Scots, the keeper of the place, an old lady, conducted me through all the rooms. Mary's sleeping-room, with the bed and oaken bedstead, remained as she left them; also, her work-table, work-basket, with needles, thread, and many et ceteras belonging to a lady's sewing establishment.
We were shown the chamber where Rizzio was killed, while playing by her side, her favorite air on the guitar. Lord Darnley's boots and many household articles, were not allowed to be touched. The rooms, particularly the suite appropriated to her own use, were richly hung with French tapestry; but I was told that the oaken floors were never carpeted. I was next shown into the chapel, which is without a roof; the floor is covered with weeds and grass; much of the stone work retains features of former grandeur. The vault where the remains of the Scottish Kings are deposited, which consists of white marble, is now in a state of decay. Prom the top of the hill called Arthur's seat, there is a magnificent and expansive view of the city, and far beyond, showing some beautiful scenery.
There is also a fine view from Calton hill, and in fact, Edinburgh has a beautiful appearance when viewed from an elevated position. My next visit was to the Castle; here I saw the newly discovered and long-lost Regalia of Scotland, once belonging to Robert Bruce, King of Scotland. The sceptres are silver gilt, and headed with a crystal globe; the crown is small and inelegant, set round with emeralds, rubies, topazes, and pearls. The Castle itself is a congeries of very rude, illplanned buildings, and has no security but from its walls, and naturally strong situation. On the whole, I was highly gratified with the beauty and situation of Edinburgh; yet it is only in reference to its external appearance, that the mind is fully satisfied.
When you look into the houses, the shops, the streets, either for their furniture, their merchandise, or even for persons, or equipage suitable to the grandeur of the buildings, you are utterly disappointed. Everything appears out of proportion with these majestic edifices, and must either be passed by unheeded, or if noticed at all, must be with dissatisfaction. After seeing all the sights in Edinburgh, I took leave of my kind friend, and proceeded to Glasgow, which is also a beautiful city, and not exceeded by any in Europe.