I requested him to get us a supper cooked in English style, as we did not like the Spanish mode. He gave us a fine supper of chickens, eggs, and superior coffee; and a dessert of delicious grapes, and green figs. We deposited our money with him for safety, for we were told that the city abounded in rogues, thieves and murderers. One of our young gentlemen wished very much to take a walk after supper just round in the neighborhood of the hotel. We tried to dissuade him from croins: out, as it was quite dark, and he might lose his way or get into some trouble. Our remonstrances were in vain. He wore his dirk, and had eight dollars in his pocket, and in less than an hour he returned, accompanied by a soldier.
He had been robbed of everything except shirt and pantaloons, and would probably have been murdered, had he not been rescued by this soldier. The account that he gave of himself was, that before he had reached the Square, a fellow came up to him, accosting him in Spanish which of course he did not understand. He then stepped round the corner of a house and beckoned the young man to follow him, which he very imprudently did. The fellow then commenced stripping him, holding a long knife in his hand, which lie threatened to put into his bowels, if he said a word. After he had got all except his shirt and pantaloons, the guard came along, when he threw himself among them, claiming their protection.
The thief made his escape, and our young hero got safety back to the hotel, that is, as far as his life was concerned. It was now past ten o'clock, and we felt sleepy. I went to our landlord, and requested him to show us a place where we could sleep. He said, he " was very sorry that be could not accommodate us, yet; but when those priests are done witli the billiard room, I will put some mattresses upon the tables for you, and you can close the doors, and secure them, then you can sleep comfortably." We waited with gome considerable degree of patience until the clock struck twelve; felt as though we could wait no longer, went towards the billiard room, to see what the prospect was for obtaining sleep.
When near the door, we heard the smashing of glass, and a terrible uproar. We however, opened it, and went in, and such a scene! Here were about twenty bareheaded priests, and jolly fat friars; all blind drunk; throwing broken tumblers and decanters at each other, and making a most hideous noise; the poor affrighted landlord dare not say a word to them for fear of losing their blessing! It was two o'clock in the morning before we could go to sleep, or rather to lie down, as sleep was out of the question, with the noise of the watchmen's bells outside, and the talking over the scenes of evening, left us a small chance for sleep.
We however made out to get a short nap before morning. At sunrise we all roused out, took a light breakfast, mounted our horses, and commenced our tour through the city, Notwithstanding it was on the very eve of capture by Gen. San Martin, everything wore a gay and cheerful aspect. We were told that the ladies of Lima, with but very few exceptions, were in favor of, and highly desirous for a change in the government; and such lengths had they gone in demonstration of their republican principles, that many ladies in the higher circles, had prepared richly embroidered silk banners, which they intended to present to San Martin on his entering the city. I believe it to be a remarkable fact, which I have ascertained, as the result of my own observations during the course of my travels, that women prefer a repiblican form of government to that of a monarchy; and yet, how many countries there are upon the face of the earth, and which rank among the civilized too, where the voice of woman, or her opinion, however patriotic it may be, is entirely disregarded.
There is one privilege however, that she enjoys both in England and in the United States, which no one can deprive her of; she can ivrite, and the world will never know the amount of its indebtedness to female writers, and to female philan thropy. The reader will please excuse my getting off the track, and I will go on with Lima. Our first visit was to the Cathedral, whose massive columns elaborately carved, and richly plated with silver, ponderous candlesticks, ancient and valuable pictures, rich and very costly crystal chandeliers, Madonna's glistening with precious stones, and many other things, rare and beautiful, rendered the interior of this Cathedral the most magnificent place I had ever seen. We next visited the great cemetery, covering a large square of ground, and surrounded by a high wall; and in this wall were recesses, or chambers, with shelves on three sides, on which the coffins were placed.