My stopping place, as I have previously observed, was situated on Snow-hill, close along-side of St. Sepulchre Church, and very near the old Bailey or New-gate, and not a great distance from the stake at Smithfield, where John Eogers was burnt, or rather the place designated as such. The deep-toned bell of St. Sepulchre has been noted many years for its gloomy and melancholy tones, doling away the last few hours of the miserable felon, soon to expiate his crime upon the drop, in front of that dismal prison. It may have been for stealing five shillings, or for killing a fellow creature in cold blood — the stern law knowing no medium. So the Saracen head is the centre of my every-day's radii.
My first visit was to the British Museum, where, as the boy said, " jT saw everything." This unequalled museum is accessible to all, on certain days; and to pass well through it, requires a week. I next visited the House of Lords and House of Commons, and understood for the first time, the meaning of the wool-sack, which was, to let every Englishman know that wool was the life of England. Then to Westminster Abbey, which edifice I shall not attempt to describe, because a much more accurate description than I can give, may be found in many of the library books. Next in order was the Thames Tunnel, which had recently been inundated, and was hardly dry yet; it was not sufficiently finished to make it an object of much interest.
I then proceeded to the tower, and was conducted through it by one of the yeoman of the guard. I shall all also omit a description here, for the same reason assigned for the Abbey; and will merely say, that all the localities of any interest were visited, together with the imposing ceremony of publicly proclaiming William Fourth, King of England, which took place in St. James' Park, amidst an innumerable assemblage. There were present as guests, the Duke of Wellington, Prince Frederick of Prussia, and many other noble personages, whose names I did not ascertain. The day was remarkably fine, and everything attending the ceremony passed off in fine style. As the new kino* was riding through the streets in his open carriage, he was obliged to stop, occasionally, in consequence of the density of the crowd; when the people would then rush towards the carriage, to kiss his Majesty's hand.
Among the loyal devotees were many women, and when they approached the king, he would say, " My hand for gentlemen, but my cheek for the ladies/' and suiting the action to the word, held his cheek towards thein. Having travelled nearly over London proper, I commenced visiting the neighboring towns and villages; first, taking the pleasure steamer for Eichmond, visiting Eichmond Hill, which commands an enchanting prospect over a large portion of the country; then to Windsor. The castle was in mourning for the late king, and had rather a sombre appearance; the Hatchment, or achievement, still suspended from the front window, facing Windsor Park. This Park, in front of the palace, is lined on each side with some of the most magnificent oaks and elms, in the world.
Near the castle is Eton College; I was much pleased with these bright, intelligent scholars. Their play-ground joins the palace grounds. 1 was told that George IV. frequently played with them when a boy. Near the palace yard gate, and directly opposite the palace windows, was a caricature print-shop; the windows were filled with all sorts of prints, some of them, I thought, quite indecent; they all had some caricature reference to George IV. and his ladies. I went into the shop to take a survey, and to purchase; and asked the old man who kept the establishment, how it was that he could exhibit these pictures right in the face and eyes of the royal household.
" Why," answered the man, with some animation, " I get my living by selling prints; if any man in the kingdom, whether a king or a beggar, can come into my shop, and put his finger on any picture, and say, ' That is me! ' then I shall say that I am very glad to have been so fortunate as to obtain such a correct likeness." The old man's logic was probably sufficient to save him in England, but in no other European country would such bare-faced caricaturing have been tolerated. While dining at the hotel, a gentleman came in who ordered the waiter to give his horse a can of porter. At first, I thought it was a joke, but sure enough, the horse drank every drop of it, and then wanted more.