Here was but one hut. occupied by an old, decrepit negro woman, that much resembled an orang-outang; there were also, two sharp-snouted, halfstarved pigs, and a few miserable looking chickens, in the hut with her. We obtained permission to lodge in an old shanty belonging to the estate, which was nothing more than a few bamboos stuck in the ground, with others across, and the roof thatched. Poor as it was, it afforded a shelter from the night air. We had not been long on our backs, before we found that there were others there who claimed a pre-emption right, and had assailed us from the crowns of our head to the soles of our feet. I went into the old orang's hut, and asked for a candle, but such a thing was unknown to her.
At la3t, however, by rummaging over her traps, she found a piece of sperm candle about an inch long, which she had kept as a curiosity, not knowing either its use or value. I bought it, and when I cut the wick clear and lighted it, she was much astonished that she had not made the discovery before. This brief light enabled us to clear away the rubbish, so that we made out to live till morning. As soon as day dawned, we were out, breathing the noxious and miasmatic air, and listening to the songs of the paroquets, which were flying around in myriads. Rather than to be on the river another night, we told our boatmen if they would get us into Cruces, during the day, we would give them five dollars extra.
This offer seemed to have the desired effect. They pulled and tugged, and in order to assist them, when we came to a bend in the river, all got out and walked across, which very much facilitated the passage. At sunset, we arrived at Cruces. This had been a feast-day in honor of some tutelary Saint. The natives, young and old, male and female, were nearly in a state of nudity, dancing, singing, and carrying on at a great rate. We got into a tent with some others who were going to California, and were told by the man who kept it, that there were many cases of the Isthmus fever in our immediate vicinity, that there had been many deaths, principally Americans.
The food here was miserable, consisting chiefly of rice, and dried fish, which was abominably dear. Here were a number of villanous operators who had established themselves at this post to rob all who came in their way. Our next business was, to procure mules, -which had also become a monopoly. A few designing follows had bought them all up, and let them out to emigrants at enormous rates; but there was no help for it, we must get to San Francisco at any rate, so we engaged our mules at sixteen dollars each, for Fan am a. After passing a miserable night, and partaking of a poor breakfast, mounted our mules, and started for Panama. I had been told that the road was dreadful; but soon found both occular and physical demonstration of the truth of all that had been said about it.
Our caravan consisted of about forty: we were soon among the rocks, and commenced the ascent through the tortuous gorge, then coming down into a sea of mud, where the animals sunk, in some instances, quite up to their bodies. In these cases, the rider must dismount if he is not thrown off, and obtain the assistance of others, to extricate the poor beast; to do which, is always a difficult matter, and in some cases impossible. And then the poor animal must either be killed or left to perish in the mire. I met a man who had been obliged to leave two mules in this dreadful condition: he said he was unwilling to kill them; as it was impossible to extricate them, he knew of no alternative, but to leave them to their fate, fearing that he might get mired himself.
While he was telling the story, the tears were trickling down his eyes, in compassion for the miserable animals; offering any man fifty dollars that would go back and shoot them. I was pitched into the mud several times, and once thrown off on the rocks, and providentially escaped injury. These animals are remarkably sure-footed, if the rider will allow them to take their own course, they get along much better. It was very evident now, that my mule could not hold out for the whole journey. Several had already given out, and were left standing in the road. The riders, however poor 'they may have been at home, now found themselves on their ]egs again. I had taken some articles of provision at Cruces, which were put in a small basket, and hung on the mule's back, but by some means it bad fallen off, so I bad nothing to eat, and no way of getting anything until my arrival at Panama.