Get tired of my Cicerone. — Discharge him. — Sail to S)racuse. — Catania. — Arrive at Syracuse. — Description. — Singular customs of the priests. — Sail for Palermo. — Its description. — Also, description of Sicily. — Ignorance of a Sicilian broker. — Readiness to advance money. — Sail for Malta and Tripoli. — Not to communicate with Tripoli. — Politeness of the Pacha. — Death of Capt. Gordon at Messina. — Arrival of the fleet. — Sail for Tunis. — Mistake in the course. — Perilous condition. — Arrive at Tunis. — Anchor off Carthage. — Duel between two midshipmen. No blood shed. — Intelligence that Lord Exmouth had demolished Algiers by bombardment. — Sail for Algiers. — Cautioned not to approach within gunshot. — Explanation of the difficulty with the British Consul. — Indignation towards Lord Exmouth. — His visit to England. — Returns with an efficient fleet. — Bombardment of Algiers, and subjugation of the Dey. — Its final destruction by the French.
I became tired of the fellow, paid him, and let him go. From Messina, we went to Syracuse, passing Catania, a beautiful city on the east coast of Sicily, a place of great antiquity, but has suffered greatly, as well by the eruptions of Mount iEtna, as by earthquakes. It was nearly overwhelmed with lava from the former, in 1698. An earthquake destroyed a great portion of the city, and buried 18,000 persons in its ruins. It has risen from these disasters with increasing splendor, and in 1825, ranked among the finest cities in Europe. It is situated at the foot of Mount./Etna on the south side, and contains about 50,000 inhabitants. In passing, it presents a beautiful appearance, rising gradually on the slope of iEtna.
We arrived at Syracuse late in the evening, and could not see the city until the next morning. There is not much of any interest to be seen here, as the city has been much reduced by war, tyranny and earthquakes. Great stories are told about Dionysius and his cave. And I noticed while lying here, that a little after sunJ down there was a peculiar noise on shore near the church, and asked the boatman one day what this noise meant. He told me that the church was shut up every night, and that previous to locking the doors, the priests went round inside with long poles to beat the devil out; and this was the noise that we heard.
We sailed from Syracuse to Palermo, passing nearly round the Island, and arrived there in four days. Palermo is situated at the head of a bay of its own name, surrounded by high and rocky mountains. The country between the city and the mountains is one of the richest plains in the world. A visit to the Botanic Garden and the Catacombs, is well worth the attention of the traveller. I should have mentioned that while at Syracuse, the commodore applied to a rich Jew banker for a loan on credit of the United States, as the officers needed money to replenish their wardrobe, and also to pay their little hotel bills on shore. The commodore and purser waited on the banker, who was entirely ignorant of what part of Europe the United States might be found, having a Map of the World before him at the same time.
But when it was shown him who, and what, and where the United States was, he lifted up both hands, exclaiming: " Oh, yes! yes! lou are the country that have just concluded a peace with the English. Yes, I have read of your war. You can have what money you wish." Bills on the United States were cashed, and the officers liberally supplied with the needful. I should also have stated that the fleet, consisting of the Washington, 74, Commodore Chauncey: Java Frigate, Commodore Perry; and Peacock, Capt, G-. W. Rodgers; frigate Constellation, and Erie, sloop-of-war, had arrived at Messina after we had left. The Ontario had received orders to proceed from Palermo to Malta, and from thence to Tripoli, but not to communicate with the shore until the arrival of all the ships.
According to orders, we lay off Tripoli ten days. During this time, the Bashaw kindly sent off a bullock, some sheep and a large quantity of fruit, which was to us at this time, a very acceptable present. At length the squadron appeared in sight, and we soon learned that the cause of their delay was, that Capt. Charles Gordon, of the Constellation, had died at Messina. He had been out of health for some time, which I believe was caused by having a bullet in his body, which he had received many years before, and which had not been extracted, and continued suppuration had very much reduced him. He was a brave officer and an accomplished gentleman. We remained off Tripoli two days, and then by signal from Commodore Chauncey, (who by seignority, superseded Commodore Shaw,) received orders to proceed to Tripoli in the line of order designated by signal.