S. Ship Independence. The yard was to be ready against her arrival at Gibraltar, which would probably be in a few days. The consul gave me the necessary order accompanying it, with a note of introduction to the commandant of the royal dock-yard. When I reached the yard, ascertaining that the commandant had gone to his residence, it being his dinner hour, I proceeded to his house, rang the bell, requested the servant to sav to Mr. Pownal that I wished to see him directly. This great personage made his appearance; 1 handed him the order for the spar, also my note of introduction. lie then straightened himself up, and with an indignant scowl, demanded why 1 had come to his house on business of this -nature.
"Do you know, sir, that we don't make spars here?" 11 1 am well aware of that, sir, but my order from Commodore Bainbridge was to attend to this business immediately on my arrival at Gibraltar, as in all probability the ship will remain but a few hours in the Bav after hor arrival." " Well, sir, this is no place for such business," and turned to leave me in this abrupt manner. But I was determined not to stand such treatment, and advancing towards him, said: " Look here, sir; you are but a man, after all. I am an officer of the United States Navy, and have been sent to you with an official order for a maintop-sail yard for the United States ship, Independence.
I came to you in a respectable and polite manner, and expected to meet a gentleman; I have performed my errand, and now sir, leave the matter with you and the American Consul." I put on my hat, and turned to leave. He then, assuming a different tone, requested me to remain in the parlor a few minutes, and he would go with me to the spar maker. In a few minutes he was ready, and walked to the dock-yard in the most sociable manner, paying us a very high compliment on our most favorable and expeditious treaty with Algiers. On arriving at the spar yard, it was decided that there was not a spar at the garrison large enough for the requisition.
I parted with my stiff friend, with the utmost good feeling on both sides. Next day I went on shore quite early, for the purpose of rambling through the Eock, and availing myself of a polite invitation to dine with the Consul. I had read much of the Kock of Gibraltar, and had heard old sailors tell about guns being hung in chains, and about the old Moorish Castle, that millions had been offered for the privilege of opening it. All this created a desire to see for myself. So on landing, I got an intelligent soldier for a guide, and the necessary permit, and proceeded on my exploring tour. And without being very elaborate, I will give, although in the language of another, a pretty fair description of the Eock.
" Gibraltar is a high rock, projecting about three miles from north to south into the sea, and is the most southerly point of the Continent of Europe. It is connected with Spain by an isthmus of low land, the southern part of which belongs to the English, the northern to Spain, and the central to neither, being called the neutral ground. If convicts escape from Gibraltar, and succeed in crossing the neutral grounds, they are safe, as the Spanish authorities will not give them up. The muskets of the sentinels are, however, loaded with ball, and they must fire on any convict who is seen endeavoring to escape. English officers often cross the line into Spain to hunt and shoot, but are compelled to be well armed, as kidnapping is by no means uncommon.77 There are many Jews in Gibraltar, and those of the most villainous sort; licentiousness also prevails to a great extent, especially among soldier's wives.
The gates are shut at sundown, after which no one can get either in or out. 1 cannot see any great use in its occupation as a garrison. It is not as many suppose, the key to the Mediterranean, any more than whatever use might be made of the Bay as a rendezvous. It costs the British Government an enormous annual expenditure, and after all, it amounts to nothing. The treaty of peace with Algiers, and the settlement of the demands against Tunis and Tripoli, enabled the greater part of the fleet to return home. And in designating those that were to stay, and those that were to return, caused much discontent among the officers, as there were many among those appointed to stay, that wished to go home.