Crossing the plain of.Ararat, we commenced the ascent through a wide ravine, enclosed between vast ridges of volcanic rock. For three hours we wound our way through rugged defiles, occasionally traversing fertile plateaux, verdant with growing crops of wheat and barley. Our surefooted litde horses, accustomed to this soil of work, picked their way through the most breakneck places, and brought us in safety to the black goat's-hair tents of our host, which were pitched on some pasture lands on the southern slope of Greats Ararat, about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. Hither the Kurds resort in summer with their flocks and herds, returning to the villages of the plain at the approach of winter.
A portion of the chiefs tent was set apart for our use; the floor was covered with gay-coloured carpets, a fat sheep was killed, and eveiything was supplied that Kurdish hospitality could suggest.
At 3 o'clock next morning, we were on the move, all except Mr. Thursby, who, to our regret, was obliged by indisposition to remain in the tenL Three hours of continued ascent on foot brought us to the base of the cone. Here Major Eraser bore off to the south-east, and took a line of his own, while Mr. Theobald, Mr. Evans, and I commenced the ascent on the southern side, keeping to the snow, which presented an unbroken surface to the very summit by Google
To my two friends, who are experienced Alpine climbers, this was tasy work, but it soon began to tell unTavourably on my unaccustomed limbs. For a time we kept pretty well together; by degrees, however, Mr. Theobald began to forge ahead, followed by Mr. Evans, while I brought up the rear as well as 1 could. But my strength was fast giviqg way, and when about half-way up the cone, I found myself utterly unable to proceed any farther. Accordingly, there being no alternative but to descend, I sat on the snow and shot down with the velocity of an arrow, undoing in a fcr minutes the laborious toil of nearly three hours. I'his was a keen disappointment, amply repaid to me however, as will appear by-and-by.
At the foot of the cone I found Issak Bey, who with a couple of bis people had come out to watch our progress. He looked on my foilurc as a matter of course, and seemed to think the others, too, must soon give in; but no, up they went higher and higher, his interest and surprise keeping pace with their ascent
For some hours we watched their upward course, the sharp naked eye of the Kourd plainly discerning what I was able to see only with the aid of a telescope. At length, at 1.45, Mr. Theobald crowned the summit Great was the astonishment of the chief. ' Mashallah! ' he exclaimed, ' God is great! — What wonderful people these English are; a few of them come here, and without any difficulty walk to the top of the holy mountain, a thing that never was done by man before. Wonderful, wonderful!'
At 3.50, Mr. Evans reached the summit He and Mr. Theobald made the descent together, by the same track that they ascended, and returned to the tents about sunset
We must now follow the movements of Major Fiaser, who, as already stated, took a line of his own. Not being accustomed like the otheis to snow work, he chose a ridge of stone, which led up about two-thirds of the ascent. Over this he made his way without much difhculty, and then, taking to the snow, he patiently toiled upwards till within a few hundred feet of the summit Here, in attempting to cross over to what appeared a more practicable line, he slipped on some thinly-covered ice, and, losing all control over himself, he shot down with fearful velocity, now head, now feet foremost, over a space of about nine thousand feet By wondeifiil efforts and presence of mind, he succeeded in arresting his perilous descent, and, scrambling with difficulty to a rocky ridge that protruded above the snow, he climbed over it with immense labour; and thus recovering his lost way, he won the height about 3-30, having been thro*-n back fill! three hours by his mishap. He descended on the traces of Messrs. Theobald by Google ass and Evans, and regained the tents at midnight, having been about twenty hours on foot
On the 13th about 2 p.m., Mr. Thursby and I started from the tents accompanied by two Kurds, canying rugs, great-coats, and a small supply of provisions. We proceeded slowly and leisurely until we reached about one-third the ascent of the cone. There we were obliged to dismiss the Kurds, who, from religious fear, refused either to proceed ferther, or to spend the night on the mounts; but, to ensure their return in the morning for the nigs &c., we thought it expedient to retain their arms, the dearest possession of these nomade people.