5,800 reached a pasture named Detzyl, where we stopped to rest the horses. Here we found a party of Swanny making up rolls of bark from the birch-trees in the forest close by, for conveyance into Swannety, where it is torn into strips, twisted, and burned for lights. From this point we had an extensive view of the valley of the Tzhenys-tzkalys which we had just quitted, the highest mountains that closed in the picture being the Lakouyary to the south, to the east the Tzheourysh, and the Tetenary to the southeast Though the sky was obscured by heavy clouds, and there was a damp feeling in the air, the thermometer at 2 P.M. marked 70°, and the day turned out pleasanter than we expected
We continued the ascent at 2.45 by short but steep zigzags up the south-west aspect, until we skirted the swelUng mountain on the west side by the narrowest of paths, overlooking abysses bottomless to several thousand feet, where airy vapours hid their depths, such a sight producing what I conceive to be one of the most fascinating effects of mountain scenery; it was awful to behold, and even the Cossacks, bold and careless horsemen thoi^h they be, seemed impressed by what was attracting general attenby Google tion, for they had been amusing themselves since leaving Detzyl by chanting in a subdued voice their Church hymns, and novv every sound had ceased, and they followed noiselessly. As we rose, the v^etation became scantier, giving way to tall tlgerlilics (Liiium Colchiaim), which grew in profusion, and when at 4 P.M. we again made a short halt, we were in the midst of rock and down covered with creeping rhododendron (Rhododendron Caucaskuni).
When near the top of the mountain, the Chief was met by the mainasaklysy of three communes in Independent Swannety, who were the bearers of intelligence that caused some merriment umong the escort; but the Chief looked displeased when it was reported to him that the Swanny robber lately captured and sent to Ony, had effected his escape and returned to his old haunts and practices.
At 4.47 we reached the summit of Latpary, marked by a small cairn in the middle of a grassy plateau, the adjoining nooks and hollows exposed to the north being spread with snow. We were unfortunately enveloped in mist which completely hid the view around, so we pushed on (for the Chief was desirous of getting to quarters before dark), and soon commenced the descent in a northerly direction, the eye overlooking awe-inspiring depths unrelieved by tree or shrub. Brow follows upon brow, and brink succeeds to brink, as the path in some parts barely practicable winds along the head of numerous glens, the offshoots of a mighty valley, and when we got to the end of an ar^te, we obtained our first sight of the upper valley of the Ingour. To the right, far away, lay the commune of Oushkoul, and to our left that of Kala, where we arrived at 7.40 P.M., after a steep descent through the most lovely shrubberies and a flora inflnitely richer and more by Google varied than anything we had yet seen. We had to cross the Moushour torrent and the Ingour before getting to Kala, and on a plot between the two streams the Priestav of Swannety, attended by his inteqjreter and escort, was waiting to conduct the Chief to 6t7SO the small village of Lalhory above the left bank of the Kalpety, a watercourse between the viU^es of Moucoudar and Davberr. The little hut occupied by the Chief and myself was about 15 feet square, with a real muddy floor in which our boots bit well; but we soon got comfortably settled, for the Chief has the gift of knowing how to prepare for mountain journeys with the least possible bustle, and what could we need more than the little campbed and clean sheets we each enjoyed, aniong other lesser luxuries? The suite and escort settled themselves under a shed, and after a good tire had been kindled, and a circle was formed around it, and pipes were lit, and the Cossacks began to sing, we looked a well-satisfied party; and then we evidently afforded no end of material for speculation among the mountaineers, who crowded about us in the most inquisitive manner. (July) 10 P.M. ther. 52°. One of the objects of the Chiefs ofBcial tour in the upper valley of the Ingour, was to superintend tlie fresh elections of the tnamasaklysy and their pamdshtcknyky ' in the several communes, and notice having been given upon our arrival that the voters for Kala and Oushkoul were to assemble in the morning, the male population of those two communes began to muster in front of our encampment at nine o'clock, and when all had assembled the proceedings were opened with an address from the Chief. The instantaneous and unanimous expression of opinion being that the Chief should himself select the most fitting men, the Colonel had
I See vol. i> p. 241; these declionii take place every Ihird Jtax,
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THE ELECTIOm AT LALHORY. 65