The annexation of the Novorossiysk region and the most fertile provinces of Podolia and Volyn opened a natural route to the Black Sea. There was an urgent need to open up a convenient place for trade to sell rich wheat harvests. At first the city grew slowly: there was no fresh water, there were no trees, the area was wild and deserted. But with the appointment of the Duke de Richelieu (Duke Armand Emmanuel de Richelieu) as Mayor in 1803, the golden era of Odessa began. Richelieu breathed life into this city: he built streets, planted gardens, eased customs duties, sought the rights of a free harbor (Porto Franco), built a hospital, theater, cathedral and schools. When Richelieu left Odessa in 1814 to become the first minister of France, the city already had 35 thousand inhabitants and was conducting trade worth tens of millions of rubles! The Duke de Richelieu is absolutely worthy of the bronze monument erected to him by grateful citizens on Primorsky Boulevard by Martos.
Subsequent rulers, especially Count Langeron and now Governor-General Count M. S. Vorontsov, completed what they started. Vorontsov transformed Odessa into the European capital of southern Russia. The streets of the city are wide, straight, lined with shady Italian poplars and fragrant white acacias. In the middle of Primorsky Boulevard stands the magnificent palace of Count Vorontsov himself with a semicircular colonnade, from where a delightful view of the roadstead and ships of all flags of the world opens up.
The next day after my arrival, I came to Count Vorontsov, eagerly wanting to show him my deep respect. I found him in his office, immersed in the affairs of his vast region. He received me with that simplicity and affection that is characteristic only of truly great people, and asked about my trip to the Crimea and about my sister’s health. On the same day I was invited to a ceremonial dinner, where I met the count’s wife, Countess Elizaveta Ksaverevna (nee Countess Branitskaya). The Countess combines rare beauty with extraordinary intelligence, grace of manners and European education. Her salon attracts all the best and enlightened society of the city.
The steamer "Nicholas I", on which I was supposed to sail to Constantinople, was being repaired, and I had about two weeks left to spend in Odessa. I used this time to see the sights of the city and visit friends. I often saw Lev Aleksandrovich Naryshkin, a lieutenant general and a famous rich man. His house and the house of Count Witt are revered first in the city. The most selective society gathers at Naryshkin’s place; his wife, Countess Olga Pototskaya, is famous for her beauty. I visited the equestrian arena of L. A. Naryshkin, and, as an old cavalryman and a passionate lover of horses, I admired his thoroughbred Arabian and English horses.
I also visited the Odessa Museum of Antiquities, founded thanks to the enlightened care of I. P. Blaramberg. Precious monuments of the ancient Greek civilization on the Black Sea are collected here: tombstones, vessels, coins and inscriptions from Olbia, Tire and Chersonese. It gave me particular pleasure to meet here the old Professor Schneider, a venerable scientist, who in my youth was a mentor and professor of jurisprudence at Moscow University in my father’s house. The old man, with youthful delight, showed me rare antique coins and explained Greek inscriptions.
When describing Odessa, one cannot fail to mention the dachas located along the high seashore on the Small and Sredny Fontans. The most beautiful of them is Mr. Renault's dacha (Désiré Renault). Shady alleys, fountains, flower beds and a magnificent view of the open sea make it priceless. The Empress Alexandra Feodorovna spent some time here during her visit to the south.
In the evenings I visited the Italian Opera, which is maintained in excellent condition in Odessa. The troupe is made up of wonderful voices; operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti (“Norma”, “Elisir of Love”, “Semiramide”) are given. The theater is visited willingly by the whole society; in the stalls I noticed an extraordinary mixture of nations: Italian merchants, Greek merchants, French merchants and many rich Karaites and Jews who passionately love Italian music.
Time flew by quickly. The steamship "Nicholas I" repaired its damage and was ready to go to sea. On the day of departure, I learned that my companions to Constantinople would be Count and Countess Musin-Pushkin, the Adjutant General of His Majesty’s retinue and several foreign diplomats. The hour of my departure from my fatherland to the East was approaching!