INmy return from the Crimea to England, I repassed in the same track from Karagoss to Odessa, the places that in my route I have before noticed ; but as I was resident two months at Nicolayeff, I subjoin a few particulars of that place. I could not fail to remark the many improvements of this town under the administration ofthe present Commander-in-Chief, ViceAdmiral Greig, a man so high in estimation, as to be admired even by those who envy him.
The office of Admiralty is held here, though the rendezvous of the Russian fleet is at Sevastopol. In the dock -yard we saw completed and launched a 74 gun ship, and several others of different descriptions were on the stocks.
The fleet generally goes out about the month of May, for a cruize of three months, the Admiral taking the command for a part, ifnot the whole of the time.
An observatory is just established here ; and there is a public school for the children of sailors and soldiers ; and many public edifices for the different offices of government. Besides a large garden attached to the Admiral's house, of his own planting, there is a public promenade or gardens in the town ; and the pleasure grounds at his country-house, three or four versts distant, are materially enlarged and improved. These are the resort of all the principal inhabitants, and always open. An extensive vineyard too has been lately planted, which looks very healthy and flourishing, and from its grapes the first wine has been made at Nicolayeff, which I tasted at the Admiral's table.
It may be imagined what an improvement the quantity of trees now planted is to the appearance of the town, where before scarcely one was to be seen.
The population is reckoned at from seven to eight thousand stationary residents ; of sailors, soldiers, shipwrights, &c. about five thousand. According to the census of 1819, there were 1400 houses, but their number is daily increasing. Their method of building cottages is. both cheap and expeditious, and very warm and comfortable when well finished. The corner posts are of wood, proportioned to the size of the house to be built, with light rafters and beams, and spars at regular distances for the walls, over which is laid, both within and without, a covering of reeds, and this is drawn and plastered ; the roof is of reeds also. When the plastering is dry they are white-washed, and the window-frames and doors painted, which renders them the neatest cottages I have seen.
In this manner the sheep-sheds, barns, and outhouses of the pretty estates that skirt the banks ofthe Ingul, are erected ; and it has been estimated, that a very good farm-house offive rooms, with kitchen and out-buildings as above-mentioned, may be built for 100/. or 2000 rubles.
The wood for such purposes is bought in the timber-yards, ready cut to any dimensions required : it is reasonable and plentiful, being brought here for Government in great quantities : its quality is soft, and not very durable. Both at Odessa and in the Crimea, it is considerably dearer than at Nicolayeff. The reeds are also bought very cheap : they grow up the Bog and Ingul in great quantities, and are ofan amazing size.
The situation of Nicolayeff is at the confluence ofthe Bog and Ingul : the former is a very fine river, about three versts wide opposite to the town, and widening gradually to about seven or eight versts at its discharge into the mouth of the Dnieper, which communicates with the Black Sea. The price of transporting corn from hence to Odessa, (in which market it always bears a better price ) , is about seventy or eighty kopeeks per tchetvert. Odessa is 117 versts from this place.
The Ingul is a smaller river, but its banks are considered fertile and rich. The Stepp soil around Nicolayeff, is a good sand upon a yellow loam ; in some parts on the banks of the Bog, it is a dead heavy sand; but this extends a short distance only.
H The banks of rivers are, in this neighbourhood, most eligible situations, on account of the scarcity of spring water, for which it is often necessary to send a considerable distance, and each family, both in the town, and its vicinity, must keep a water-cart to fetch its daily supply.
The water of the Ingul is never salt; that of the Bog is brackish when the wind sets up the mouth of the river. From these two rivers, the ice-cellars of the neighbourhood are abundantly supplied ; and that which in England is considered a luxury, and brought only to the tables of the rich and great, here cools the drink of the peasant, as well as his master; and an ice-house is as essential here, as any of the domestic offices are in England. I have seen the ice on the Bog, double the thickness spoken of in my journey.