Blu42 Media

CHAP. V.

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From Tchernigoff to Kiev is five or six stations ; at the last we were detained half a day for horses, and then obliged to bribe the postmaster to get them. It was eight o'clock when we got to the Dnieper, which we crossed here for the first time ; it was a most dangerous undertaking, from the state of the ice, on account of the unusual mildness of the weather ; and many attempts were made to dissuade us from attempting the passage over. The crossing directly over the river was indeed impracticable, and we had to go at least three or four versts upon the ice before we could get across, being preceded the whole way by guides, who with iron pikes ascertained the possibility of the carriages proceeding safely. Notwithstanding this precaution, the horses' feet continually broke the ice ; the river in many places appeared open, and water covered much of the ice over which we passed, sometimes to the horses' fetlocks. We were not less than two hours effecting the passage, and had almost as much difficulty in ascending the steep and slippery banks of the river when we had crossed it, as there was in getting over.

We entered Kiev very late in the evening, but had the comfort of getting into very good quarters. Its situation is remarkably fine ; one part of the town is on a bold and rocky eminence ; in going to it, we passed up a hill of more than a mile in length, with rocks towering above, and precipices below us. The hill between the upper and lower town, commands a most extensive and beautiful prospect, taking in the old town, or city of Kiev, that in the valley, which is called the Podole, the Castle of Pestcherskey, a stately monastery, churches, barracks, &c. and the river, which is broad, and must in summer be a magnificent addition to this scene.