On leaving Balta we entered upon a country the very reverse ofwhat we had passed ; a rich black soil, said to be most luxuriantly fertile. This, which is called Stepp, was a few years ago nearly the whole of it uninhabited ; for the sake of increasing population, and its consequent advantageous results, the Emperor has to some persons made grants of land on this Stepp ; to others he has sold land at a low rate, and it is now, in many parts, getting rather thickly peopled.
Some equipages belonging to the Count Langeron, which were also going to Odessa, and were before us on the road, had pre-occupied the tracteers, and we were obliged to find quarters in the cottages of the Russian peasantry of the villages through which we passed. This circumstance we had no occasion to regret, as it gave us in all cases more comfortable lodging ; and such provision or accommodation as they had, was also afforded with the good humour so peculiarly the leading trait in the Russian character. I had several opportunities ofremarking the plenty and comfort of the Russian boor.
From Balta to Odessa is 240 versts by postroad, but across the Stepp 180 only. From Balta to the Crimea is all Stepp. We travelled now in very different style to that ofsledging ; the roads were heavy, and when we reached the town of Odessa, scarcely passable. We spent ten days at this place, in consequence oflearning that a river wehad to cross was impassable, on account ofthe state ofthe ice. Mr. Y. was well known, in particulartoGeneral Cobley, theCommandant, and to one or two merchants ofthe place. He had also a letter to Mr. Yeames, the British Consul, who received us with the greatest attention, and whose family shewed much kindness to me and my children. We visited General Cobley also, who is an Englishman, but has long been in the Russian service. Admiral Mordvinoff married the sister ofthis gentleman, and to this circumstance was owing his first entering, and subsequent promotion to the rank he now holds.
The town of Odessa is a very flourishing seaport, and a most astonishing place, if it be remembered that about twenty years ago a few fishing huts comprised the whole of its inhabitants, and that in 1812 a third of its population was destroyed by the plague. It was founded in 1796, and to theDukede Richelieu,Odessa owes whatever of prosperity it now enjoys, or whatever pre-eminence as a city it may hereafter attain. It is situated on a rock, and is very extensive, the style in which it is built making it cover a large quantity of ground : the streets run in parallel lines.
The bazars, or markets, occupy two large squares at the eastern and western extremity of the town. The merchants have their warehouses attached to their houses, which are many ofthem only one story high, others one floor above the ground. As no part of the town is paved, it is in wet weather the dirtiest place I ever saw, except Balta ; and in summer the dust is as intolerable as the dirt in winter. Here is a pretty theatre, but the different manner of lighting it makes itmuch lessgayand pleasingthan ours ; the stage only is well illuminated, and the rest ofthe theatre almost dark. Italian operas, and Russian and French plays, are gotupin pretty good style. But that which is most worthy of remark at Odessa, is a very fine institution for the education of the young nobility, called the Lyceum. All the languages are taught here by different professors, and the various accomplishments required. It is considered a military establishment, and the students intended for the service, either in the navy or the army, have the rank of cadet given them on their entrance. A part of the institution is adapted for girls, and General Cobley's daughter was here.